Ulysse Nardin, fresh off its conscious uncoupling from luxury group Kering, celebrates Geneva Watch Days with two new versions of the Lady Diver 39mm and Blast Tourbillon 45mm watches. What connects these two timepieces – one fun and flirty, the other weighty and imposing? A connection as old because time, or at least as old as 1979's The Muppet Movie. That's right, the rainbow connection! Both watches, different though they may be, have the same family heirloom, a bezel of multi-colored precious and semi-precious stones like rubies, tsavorite, peridot topaz, aquamarine, amethyst, and sapphire, in ROYGBIV (hello, elementary school color spectrum memorization tip! ) formation. The Blast Tourbillon Rainbow has 38 of these twinkling beauties as well as gem indices. The Lady Diver Rainbow has 40 of them and diamond indices. Each come with several strap options.

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I have to admit that a quick glance led me to think these wrist watches had been made for Pride Month, a nd I'm not trying to be funny or cute - I literally thought, "Oh, Pride watches. Alright. " But no . Satisfaction was back in June and also, in point of fact, the rainbow design is in homage to the element silicium (commercially known as silicon).

Most watch nerds know that Ulysse Nardin is bullish on silicon/silicium (they made the first view to use it, the iconic Freak from 2001). Exactly how this material led, in a design sense, to the Range Collection is the sort of thing you'll never guess and will simply have to be told: The Rainbow Collection is inspired by the "iridescent rainbow colors of silicium … the actual shimmering colours of this revolutionary material. "

It seems like a bit of a stretch for me, but to be honest whenever style people tell me what they were inspired by I almost never buy this and I am not going to make an exception here.
You can also see this range trend in Rolex's famous Rainbow Daytona from 2012, the Breitling Superocean Heritage '57 Offers a from 2020, and the Hublot Rainbow Big Bang Tourbillon from 2021. Compare this collection to those as you wish.

A very brief history of Ulysse Nardin for the people in the back, i. e., me: The brand started off in 1846 making marine chronometers. This explains the particular anchor logo in case you had been wondering, as I did, if it originated as a Nantucket shop that sells floating ice buckets shaped like lobsters. Since the brand was revived in the '80s, it has generally been known for marine chronometer-inspired watches, and a focus on promoting specific technical innovations (aside from silicon, the Fanatic told time without the use of hands), and more broadly, typically the European seafaring lifestyle.

The company was acquired by Kering in 2014, and earlier this year it was un-acquired through Kering. Having shrugged off the mantle associated with its corporate conglomerate, it is presenting it is new independent face to the world with these rainbow designer watches.
Look, I love blingy wristwatches. I love that Hublot, mentioned above. On this very website, I recently expressed love for the Zenith Defy Midnight Borealis. We even love the Judith Lieber Timex collaboration watch, in which our own Nora Taylor, her eyes glowing with immense pride regarding ownership, swans about.

Here's why those watches work: The Début is so over the top and garish that it tips into ultra-luxury. The Zenith is not quite over the top and its color scheme is refreshing, imaginative, and it's also not hideously expensive. And the Timex is just so tacky that it rounds the bend to gorgeous. Also, it is not thousands of dollars, it really is hundreds, which definitely helps.

The Variety Collection different watches, in my view, are both too much and not really enough. Even as they insist that they are bold, they emit an insecure knowledge that they are not bold at all, as the color scheme is one we have seen countless times, and the trend to use that in pieces peaked at least a year ago.